A quick guide to pre-washing
We’ve all been there, our brand-new fabric is staring at us, that beautiful new dress awaits, there’s just one barrier to getting started on your exciting new project, it’s that you need to wash the fabric before you can begin – argh!!!
No matter how excited you might be to get on with that project, don't be tempted to skip this stage. I speak from experience having once made a beautiful PJ set from a lovely viscose fabric. All my sewing went perfectly (doesn’t it always in these cases) but, unfortunately, I had been too impatient to wash my fabric before getting started and they shrank so much in the first wash that I could no longer wear them – since then I have vowed never again!!
So, why is pre-washing so important?
Pre-washing your fabric serves a few different purposes. Most importantly, washing your fabric before starting to sew will pre-shrink your fabric hopefully avoiding a situation like mine above (I’m still sore about it by the way!).
Natural fibres particularly can shrink up to 5-10% in their first wash so it’s important to get all of that shrinkage done and out of the way before sewing up your new garment and washing it for the first time.
Another reason to pre-wash is to remove any dirt, starch or excess dye from the fabric. You'll feel the difference with this in fabrics such as cottons or linens particularly as once they're washed and the starch has been removed, they will often feel much softer and more wearable. Unfortunately, because the starch has been removed, the fabrics are now more creased and more difficult to iron.
How should I pre-wash my fabric?
As a general ‘rule of thumb’ you should always wash and dry your fabric as you will be washing and drying the garment once you’ve made it.
It’s always important to check the composition of the fabric and any washing or drying instructions included on the label or website you are purchasing your fabric from. Most websites will include an information section in the fabric listing like the one below which will serve as a guide for how to wash both fabric and garment. It’s always best to unfold your fabric before putting it in the machine to help avoid excess creasing or lines.
Something else to consider in the pre-washing stage is how much your fabric is going to fray once washed since unlike washing a garment, the seams are yet to be finished. Cottons, linens and polyester blends may not fray too much. Viscoses and lighter fabrics however, can fray terribly and end up tangled in the washing machine.
One way to avoid fraying is to finish the edges of the fabric before throwing in the wash and you can do this by either zig-zagging, overlocking/serging or trimming the edges with pinking shears.
I have to be honest and say that I’m usually far too impatient to finish the edges before the pre-wash so I often end up washing anyway (a mesh bag will help to avoid some of the tangles) and then pressing and trimming away the fray before starting to cut.
What about pressing?
When it comes to pressing, again, always be sure to check any manufacture instructions on how to manage this. Polyester and some man-made fibres can melt or stick to an iron if you aren’t careful. If you can’t find any instructions or your fabric is old and you can’t remember the composition – consider washing and pressing a swatch to see how it performs.
TIP: Don’t forget to measure the swatch before washing to check for shrinkage.
With natural fibres such as cotton or linen, a good steam with a hot iron is usually the best way to go – it’s best to test a small area of the fabric with the iron to see how it responds before jumping right in!
Do I need to pre-wash my fabric on its own?
Whether you need to wash your fabric on its own in the machine or with the rest of your household wash is personal preference (I think). For me, it always seems a bit wasteful and not particularly environmentally friendly to wash one piece of fabric at a time so I tend to throw my fabric in the household wash in a zipped, mesh bag to keep it from getting tangled. Always wash your fabric with similar colours of course.
An exception to my own rule on this this might be if I think the fabric is likely to colour run a lot (very dark denims or linens can be guilty of this). I don’t want to end up ruining the rest of the family’s clothes after all!
Can I ever get away without pre-washing?
Yes, in certain situations you can get away without pre-washing. Think about what you're making and how you are going to use the garment once it’s made.
If you’re making for example, a bag where you will not be able to chuck it in the wash once it’s made and will likely spot or dry clean – essentially there’s no point in pre-washing for shrinkage purposes and the starch in the fabric can actually help you achieve a clean finished look for projects such as these. You may still want to check your fabric for any dirt or remove dye if you think you need to though.
There is an argument to say that washing 100% synthetic fabrics isn’t necessary as these are unlikely to shrink in the wash. For me however, I’d still rather be safe than sorry! Washing will obviously remove any dirt and allow you to work with a clean fabric and the good news is that generally these types of fabrics don’t take long to dry and often don’t need to be pressed either!
Dark denim is another fabric that many people choose not to wash before sewing and that is because the creasing from washing can produce those annoying white lines which are difficult to press out once there. This is personal preference and again, very much depends on what you're making and how the garment is going to be worn when sewn.
Of course, the most angelic amongst us will wash, press, fold and put away their fabric immediately upon purchase so that it’s ready for use when needed. I would love to say that I am one of these people but sadly I’ve been all too guilty of being struck by inspiration, realising I haven’t washed the fabric I need and then sadly having to delay a day – I’m working on it! I hope this has been helpful.
Happy sewing!
Sally Gauntlett x
